Just want the inside scoop on Vail?
Here's what you need to know
- Peak periods on the mountain can get packed, especially when there’s fresh powder on the ground. You may find more room on the runs starting near the summit or in the Back Bowls, as others may opt for closer runs.
- The end of a holiday weekend often creates a bottleneck of vacationers and locals slogging back to Denver. Prepare for heavy traffic; secure your transportation in advance; and give yourself plenty of time to get to the airport before your plane’s departure time.
- Pick up a copy of the Vail Daily as soon as you arrive in town. It will keep you amused with small-town features and local political goings-on. More importantly, it contains an exhaustive entertainment schedule you can use to plan your stay.
- If you’re focused on daytime skiing, shopping, and exploring and can do without the raucous nightlife , investigate accommodations outside the two central Villages. East Vail, West Vail, and Cascade Village offer quieter lodging options and often lower rates without sacrificing the mountain air and views.
History of Vail
One of Colorado’s only major resorts that did not start out as a mining town, Vail offers world-class outdoor action year-round. But as a “master-planned” ski community, it makes no apologies for catering to powder junkies of all skill levels. Vail is the brainchild of two ski veterans and entrepreneurs who fell in love with the Gore Creek Valley at a young age. Massachusetts native Pete Seibert trained here for alpine combat duty with the Army’s 10th Mountain Division and found work in Aspen as a ski patrolman after World War II. Local ranger Earl Eaton was skiing nearly before he could walk, was a downhill racer, worked with the Civilian Conservation Corps, and served as an Army engineer during the war.
Recognizing Vail Mountain as an ideal spot for sharing their passion, the business partners offered investors a condo unit and lifetime ski pass for the bargain price of $10,000 to bank the $1 million required to obtain a permit to start building their resort.
Vail opened in 1962 and wasted little time etching its name on skier or snowboarder bucket lists and becoming an annual pilgrimage for the most ardent rippers and shredders.
Shredding the Gnar
Thanks to rapid expansion and more than 240 inches of annual snowfall, Vail today is a far cry from 1962 when it boasted a mere nine runs, two chairlifts, and a single gondola. Day passes also have risen a bit from the $5 lift ticket price on opening day.
Vail Mountain Stats
The resort now boasts nearly 200 runs maintaining an average depth of 32 inches – twice that at peak season in late winter/early spring. More than half those runs (103) are rated black or double-black diamond, including Riva Ridge, Vail’s longest run, a 4-mile test of skill and endurance. The piste descends an ear-popping 3,000 feet – covering nearly the resort’s full maximum vertical of 3,450 feet – from the mountain’s front-side peak to its base. Don’t let the perfectly manicured top section lull you to sleep. Interspersed with tamer blue patches, Riva includes steep sections, narrow gaps, and other rigorous terrain, including the aptly named Tourist Trap, a heavily moguled patch that has proved the undoing of several wide-eyed first timers.
Vail Back Bowl Blacks & Blues
Experienced and adventurous skiers will find additional challenges waiting over dozens more black diamonds in Vail’s famous Back Bowls, while intermediates looking to up their game and anyone eager to contemplate the vastness of nature’s bounty should head over to Blue Sky Basin. This unspoiled wilderness hosts a big selection of Vail’s 57 blue runs among an intriguing mix of blacks surrounded by dense alpine forests. Separated from the Back Bowls by a deep gully, the Basin faces north, shielding it from much of the sun’s rays, which ensures fluffy, deep snow throughout the season.
Fun on the Front
Beginners should spend their time on the front side of the mountain, where all of Vail’s 35 green trails are located. While every lift provides access to at least a few green runs, greenhorns may be best served by taking the Sourdough express to the summit of Golden Peak. From there, downhillers have their choice of four of Vail’s easiest runs: Sourdough, Boomer, Tin Pants, and Flapjack. The first three terminate at the lift for an easy ride back to the top. Flapjack runs 3,500 feet to the Northwoods Express lift, with access to the green-rated Swingville along with a dozen blue runs and a handful of blacks.
Down(hill) Payment
Lift tickets for the peak periods of March and the week between Christmas and New Year’s tip the scale at $299 per day if purchased at the resort. Otherwise, prices rise as the season progresses before falling off after the March peak. The November rack rate is a comparatively reasonable $225; In December, before peak week, the cost jumps to $255 on weekends and $239 weekdays. January’s and February’s are $289/$269; April drops back to $269/$255. Buying online in advance of your visit can trim $30 or more off the daily rate. Kids’ tickets are roughly 60 percent of the adult price, and seniors 65 and over get a $10 discount.
The multi-day, multi-resort Epic Pass was born in Vail and continues to delivery value. The Epic Local Pass gives you 10 combined non-peak ski days at Vail, Beaver Creek, and Whistler Blackcomb (British Columbia), unlimited days at resorts around the country, discounts on food, lodging, and equipment rentals, discounts on friends and family tickets, and more. At $719 per adult, $585 for teenagers, and $377 for kids 12 and under, it’s worth looking into even if you only plan a long non-blackout weekend of skiing. For a real bargain, consider an Epic Day Pass. It lets you ski at any of 38 resorts, including Vail, during off-peak days. Simply choose the number of days you’ll be on the slope and pay as little as $92 per day for a 7-day commitment. A single day pass is just $110. You still get the hotel, restaurant, and equipment rental discount, but the companion ticket discounts are not included. The Epic Pass ($969 for ages 13 and up) includes peak periods at 38 US resorts, limited free days at Telluride and ski destinations in Japan, Canada, and Europe, along with other perks. Restrictions may apply to all Epic Pass options.
Epic Pass, Epic Times
The multi-day, multi-resort Epic Pass was born in Vail and continues to delivery value. The Epic Local Pass gives you 10 combined non-peak ski days at Vail, Beaver Creek, and Whistler Blackcomb (British Columbia), unlimited days at resorts around the country, discounts on food, lodging, and equipment rentals, discounts on friends and family tickets, and more. At $719 per adult, $585 for teenagers, and $377 for kids 12 and under, it’s worth looking into even if you only plan a long non-blackout weekend of skiing. For a real bargain, consider an Epic Day Pass. It lets you ski at any of 38 resorts, including Vail, during off-peak days. Simply choose the number of days you’ll be on the slope and pay as little as $92 per day for a 7-day commitment. A single day pass is just $110. You still get the hotel, restaurant, and equipment rental discount, but the companion ticket discounts are not included. The Epic Pass ($969 for ages 13 and up) includes peak periods at 38 US resorts, limited free days at Telluride and ski destinations in Japan, Canada, and Europe, along with other perks. Restrictions may apply to all Epic Pass options.
Learning the Slopes
Skiing and snowboarding are more enjoyable when you do it the right (and upright) way. Vail’s expert instructors will have you schussing and slaloming like a pro (or at least a competent novice) in no time. Half-day adult lessons start at $207 (group) to $907 (private) on weekdays early and late in the season and climb to $264 and $1,102 on weekends at the height of the season. Full-day sessions are about 30 percent more.
Jet Setting - transportation options to Vail
Located just 35 miles west of Vail, Eagle County Regional Airport. Delta, American, and United Airlines operate direct routes from mid-December through early April from major hubs including San Francisco, Los Angles, Dallas, Houston, Phoenix, Atlanta, Miami, New York, Chicago, and Denver. You’ll find the major car rental agencies, dozens of limo, taxi, bus, and hotel shuttle options based at the airport or just a phone call away.
Denver International Airport provides more extensive and less costly, if perhaps somewhat less convenient entre to the region. After touching down in the Mile High City, you’ll need to arrange transportation to the mountain 100 miles to the east. You could always take a short hop to Eagle County Airport, but then you would miss the awe-inspiring views that come with a ride through the Rockies’ Front Range.
Rolling into Town
The posh set that treats Vail as its annual winter playground should settle for nothing less than a private limo transfer and hotel drop-off from the airport. Knowledgeable drivers enjoy enlightening passengers on the area’s geology and history. Private cars, which you can schedule at your convenience, cost $1,100 or more per parties of 1 to 4. One-way trips from Denver International on private SUV transfers start at about $120 per person in a 5-person vehicle and $80 each for a seat on a 12-person shuttle. Smaller partiers can share the ride and save $10 or so per person.
Vail Taxi and Ride Shares
A taxi will cost around $280, give or take, depending on traffic. Uber and Lyft rates run about $240 for a vehicle that can accommodate skis and gear, but they may not be available. Drivers are often wary of making the trip when there’s no guarantee they can snag a fare for the return trip.
Get on the Bus, Gus
If you don’t mind shlepping your own luggage and skis, you could save a bunch of money by taking the Colorado Department of Transportation’s Glenwood Springs/Denver bus at just $17 per person each way. Unfortunately, the buses leave from Union Station – 25 miles from the airport – and depart only twice per day, at 7 am and 5:40 pm. They take 2 ½ hours to arrive, an hour longer than direct shuttles, rideshare, and private transport. And they make only one stop in town, at the Vail Transportation Center, so you’ll have to walk or catch an in-town bus to get to your accommodations.
Take the Wheel
If you’re confident in your ability to drive on snow and ice (although the authorities do a great job of maintaining the route along I-70) and plan to explore the areas outside Vail’s villages, a car rental from the airport will come in handy. All the big-name companies operate in and near the airport. Compact cars are about $50 per day, with SUVs checking in at $55 to $70 per diem. Be aware, however, that parking costs around $40 a day during peak times.
Lay of the Land
Built to evoke the quaint streets of Bavarian and alpine villages, Vail’s cobblestone walkways beckon strollers to explore its covered bridge, glockenspiel, turn-of-the-century ranch homes, one-room schoolhouse, and botanical gardens. The town flows in a thin ribbon between the mountain’s base and the interstate. With plentiful signage and a no-cars policy in Vail Village and Lionshead Village – the happening destinations in the heart of town – you can get to most of the eateries, watering holes, and boutiques in 15 minutes. Anything further afield is a short, free ride on one of the Vail’s frequently scheduled buses. One will pass every 20 minutes or so during ski season.
Shop 'til You Drop
The two villages boast several eclectic shops: art, crafts, jewelry, home décor, and apparel ranging from outdoorsy to opulent. We recently counted 55 bars and lounges, and two microbreweries in Vail Village and dozens more in Lionshead, so you’re sure to find several whose apres-ski and happy hour vibes match your style. Maybe you’ll find kindred spirits over nachos and microbrews at the Red Lion, which opened in 1963, less than a year after the resort opened. Or perhaps you’re more of a Pink Drink-sipping, sun deck-lounging kind of person who would find Garfinkle’s more your speed.
Another Round?
Night owls and other party animals will want to use Vail Village as their basecamp so they can party long after the apres-ski set has headed off for a reasonable night’s sleep and an early start on tomorrow’s skiing. The Shakedown is the closest thing to a dive bar the mountain town offers. Once the season hits full speed, there’s live music every night, It’s much quieter and more refined at The George; perfect for intimate conversation.
Bring the Kids
Despite Vail’s reputation for rowdy pubs and high prices, families love the resort as much as ski bums and snow bunnies. With a little planning, you can make memories with your whole gang without blowing your whole bankroll.
Lessons for the Little Ones
Patient instructors help inexperienced skiers aged 3 to 15 gain skills and confidence to negotiate the mountain. Regardless of skill level, they will fit right in with their group. Early-season full-day lessons are $432 for kids up to age 6 and $334 for ages 7 to 15. Toddlers aged 3 and 4 who have never been on skis before can get their first taste with a half-day lesson priced at $223 during shoulder season. Rates are 10 percent higher in the middle of the season. Parents must purchase lift tickets for their ski school students in addition to the cost of the lessons.
Downtime
Taking the kids to the mountain doesn’t just give them the joy of participating in a sport that will last a lifetime. Little skiers and their parents can visit the Nature Discovery Center on the mountain summit. Housed in a cool yurt at the Eagles Nest gondola terminal, the center teaches visitors about the area’s various ecosystems.
Kid-Friendly Eats
While some Vail restaurants are more kid-friendly than others, most include menus the small fries will love. Make dining an adventure and expand the family’s culinary horizons at Swiss Chalet. Indulge in succulent potatoes, veggies, and baguette bread dipped in authentic imported cheese fondue while you grill your own meat right at your table. Of course, there are also plenty of casual burger joints and pizza parlors for more traditional kids’ meals.
A Long Winter's Nap
Accommodations are not cheap, but if you book a month or so in advance, you can find a few bargains. A two-night stay in mid-December for two children and their parents in the same room can cost as little as $700, even for rooms within a half mile of the nearest ski lift. Most even include a sauna and/or hot tub for soothing away the well-earned aches and bumps that remind you what a great time you had on the runs.
Après au Pair
When it’s time for some adult time, at least one agency provides professional childcare day or night in your location. Fully background-checked sitters come equipped with a bagful of educational and recreational activities to ensure your little ones have as much fun as you do as you hit the nightspots or shred the slopes. Rates are $39 per hour for the first child and an additional $2 per hour for more kids. There’s a 4-hour minimum, and other fees for last-minute bookings and holiday assignments.